Winter Vacation Part 3 – More Tokyo

This is continued from Tokyo, Japan. If you missed that part, I encourage you to read it first. Also if you missed the Tokyo GoPro video, here it is!

Our Third Day in Tokyo – Ghibli Museum

Our third day in Tokyo was freezing, well, less than freezing. It was snowing…a lot. It was also the day we planned to visit the Ghibli museum. The Ghibli museum is a museum dedicated to Studio Ghibli, the studio behind Princess Mononoke, Castle in the Sky, My Neighbor Totoro, and most famously Spirited Away. The museum is wildly popular and issues tickets for specific dates and times to keep the crowds down. Because of this, our tickets were date specific so we had to brave the snow. Nicole and I put on every piece of winter clothing we had and caught a train to the museum, or tried to.

Snowmageddon

During snow, Tokyo’s fantastic subway system becomes a bit more convoluted. One of the trains we tried to take wasn’t running the full length of its route so we had to hop off and transfer to a different train. Several announcements on the matter were made. However, they were all in Japanese, and, alas, I do not know Japanese.

Once we arrived at the nearest station we had a 1km walk. During agreeable weather this walk is beautiful and through a park. During snow, this walk is cold and terrible. Weather aside, we eventually made it to the Ghibli Museum. It’s a small building nestled in the corner of a park. From the outside it looks like a little cottage. Inside it feels like one too. There are characters from the movie all over and little tunnels and doorways for kids, and Nicole, to play in.

Our Fourth Day in Tokyo – Fancy Day

We met up with Robin and his wife for lunch downtown. Rob took us to one of the fanciest meals I’ve ever had. We had venison and a number of other fancy dishes I can’t name. After lunch Robin dropped us off in Ginza, the fancy area of Tokyo. We strolled past designer shops and stopped into the world’s largest Uniqlo so I could buy a thermal shirt and some long johns since it was so cold.

Bear Comic and Robots

That afternoon Nicole and I visited TEPIA, Tokyo’s emerging technology gallery. It’s a bit like Innoventions at EPCOT. There were lots of cool examples of new technologies. Nicole and I got to play video games, try on a jacket that changed colors in a mirror, and even star in our own bear comic.

Indian Dinner

Naan and curry
Naan and curry

That night Nicole and I visited a quaint little neighborhood where we ate more crepes and visited a bar/flowershop. It was really nice. The bar was a flowershop first and a bar second. There were flowers everywhere and squeezed between them, Nicole and I found a place to sit at the bar.

Flower Bar
Flower Bar

Our Fifth Day in Tokyo – Gundam Cafe and Temple

No the Gundam Cafe isn’t a temple as well. They were two different things we did that day. In the morning we went to Sensoji Temple and walked around. The place was packed. Nicole and I walked through crowds shoulder to shoulder to get up to the temple. Strangely enough the crowds were only in the market area leading up to the temple. The actual temple grounds weren’t that crowded and the gardens behind the temple were almost empty. The temple interior was beautiful but I preferred the view from outside and the small garden and Koi pond behind it more.

Gundam Cafe

Later in the afternoon we visited the Gundam Cafe in Akihabara. The cafe is based on the anime series Gundam. It’s about people fighting using giant robotic suits, similar to Pacific Rim. Inside the cafe there are models of the Gundam suits everywhere and TVs playing episodes from the series. The cafe is a real tourist trap, but it’s fun to visit for a drink and some light food and the prices aren’t bad. Even if you aren’t a fan of the Gundam series there’s enough novelty in the place to keep you entertained.

Akihabara

The gundam cafe is right in the middle of Akihabara, a mecca for all things geeky. There are tons of arcades, shops selling retro video games, and at one time cosplayers, although I didn’t see any while we were there. Nicole and I walked through a few of the electronics shops. They were selling NES, SNES, N64s, and tons of old and hard to find games.

Sushi and Setsubun

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That night, Nicole and I visited Roppongi. We had some amazing sushi and we found a little basement bar serving Japanese craft beer, called Ant ‘n Bee. However, that’s not all. The night we visited the bar they were celebrating Setsubun. A waitress gave us some origami paper and instructed us to make a box. Once we completed our boxes, she gave us soybeans and told us to throw them at the bar tenders, who were dressed as evil spirits. It was a lot of fun.

So I know I said last time…

I know I promised two entries, but there’s just so much to say about Tokyo. I’m going to split Tokyo into 3 parts, with tomorrow’s post being the last one. If you missed the first Tokyo post, it’s here.

Update: Final Tokyo Post 

Winter Vacation Part 2 – Tokyo, Japan

Nicole and I spent the last few days in Osaka winning Pachinko games and seeing temples in Osaka. However, now it was on to Tokyo.

The train into Tokyo
The train into Tokyo

For both Nicole and I, we’d always dreamed of visiting Tokyo. It’s considered one of the largest cities in the world, but outside of Shibuya it never really felt like it. The city is so clean and everything is so well organized you never really feel lost in the crowd. All of the subways have marked lanes for which direction people should walk. If you are going up the stairs walk here. If you are going downstairs walk here. It was amazing that everything just worked. The trains come every 3 minutes if not sooner. They shuttle 10 million people around the city everyday and if the train is more than a few minutes late they hand out apology letters you can give to your employer as an excuse for why you were late to work. Here’s a great article on the subject. It’s remarkable. Enough about that. Let’s start at the beginning of our time in Tokyo. But first, here’s a GoPro video of Tokyo.

Arriving in Tokyo

Nicole and I arrived at Narita airport, nearly 1.5 hours from Tokyo and our AirBnB. Tokyo is a massive city, and while it doesn’t feel large walking around inside the city, it feels enormous trying to take a train from one side to the other. We took a train from the airport into the city then transferred subways twice before arriving in our neighborhood. It was in a small neighborhood just Southeast of the city, and one of the cleanest places I’ve ever been.

The neighborhood we stayed in was immaculate. I felt like I was walking around on a film set. It didn’t feel real. The streets were spotless. There were almost no cars and only the occasional bicyclist. I was surprised to find a sleepy little neighborhood inside of Tokyo. I thought for sure the most populous city on the planet would be bustling at all times in all areas.

The walk to our guesthouse was short. We checked in and met out AirBnb host. He was very friendly and spoke excellent English. He’d gone through a great deal of trouble to be a great host. He handed us a binder filled with everything we could possibly want to know about the neighborhood. He had directions to the local laundromat, bars, restaurants, a list of medicine in the bathroom, instructions for working the washing machine, everything. If you’re visiting Tokyo, I recommend staying here.

Our first Day in Tokyo

Espresso from a shipping container
Espresso from a shipping container

Our first day in Tokyo we visited Harajuku. Harajuku is a popular neighborhood for the fashion forward and trendy youths of Tokyo. We saw brightly colored outfits and wild clothes everywhere we looked. I got a few pictures of the denizens of Harajuku about town while Nicole shopped. When we’d had our fill of fashion, we stopped for some espresso at a coffeeshop made of shipping containers then made our way to what we thought was Meiji Shrine. However, what we did not know was there’s a fence separating Meiji Shrine from Yoyogi Park.

Yoyogi Park and Tandem Bikes

Riding Tandem Bikes
Riding Tandem Bikes

We walked around beautiful Yoyogi Park trying, in vain, to locate the shrine to no avail. We discovered instead a tandem bike rental place and I got to ride a tandem bike for the first time ever. I rode in the front and steered while Nicole yelled “WHEEE” behind me. It was great. Everyone should go tandem bike riding. I can’t imagine ever returning to a single bicycle. I would feel so lonely.

Shibuya

Shibuya
Shibuya

After our bike ride we walked a few minutes up the road from Harajuku to Shibuya. It’s one subway stop down and a very manageable walk for anyone interested. Shibuya is a lot like Time Square in New York. It’s mostly tourists, there are tons of bright lights and if you’re visiting the city, it’s something you have to do. Nicole and I walked through the congested streets stopping into stores, getting bumped into (watch the video), and playing arcade games. Last time Nicole and I were in Japan, we played a ton of arcade games because, one, they’re awesome, and, two, they’re everywhere. Our favorite game is this drumming game similar to DDR where you drum along to the song and math the targets on the screen. Good fun.

Dinner

After some arcading we met up with two of our teacher friends from Korea, Connie and David. They’d been in Tokyo for a week already exploring the city. We all got sushi together at a little place in Harajuku. It was a conveyor belt sushi restaurant with a twist. Instead of serving a continuous stream of sushi plates to choose from, you ordered your food from a touchpad at the end of the table. Once your food was ready, a little cart on a conveyor belt would zip right to your table. It was fast and efficient. Like tandem bikes it made the normal alternative feel bland. I was hooked.

To cap off the night we got crepes down the road. I don’t know how long Japan’s crepe craze has been going on, but it’s in full swing. There were delicious crepe places everywhere. I don’t get it, but I’m fully supportive of it.

Our Second Day in Tokyo – Disney Sea

DisneySea MapNicole and I love Disney. Back when we lived in Florida we got a 4 park Florida resident pass and visited all the parks in February when they were empty. Seeing as Tokyo also has a Disney, several in fact, Nicole and I had to go. We booked tickets for Disney Sea and made our way out to the park. Disney Sea is perhaps the most unique, and one of the newest Disney parks. If you can only visit one Disney park in Japan, make sure you see Disney Sea over Disneyland. The whole park is laid out around a giant lagoon and has many different areas. There’s a Mediterranean Harbor, Port Discovery, Mysterious Island, and Mermaid Lagoon, and several other really cool spots.

We met up with my grandpa’s friend Robin. He works for Disney in Japan. We had lunch together and he showed us around the park a little bit before returning to work. Disney was a lot of fun, especially visiting a new park I’d never been to. One of the things I was most excited about was riding the “20,000 Leagues under the Sea” ride. It used to be at Magic Kingdom in Florida. However, it was shut down and replaced with some sort of Little Mermaid photo-op. The ride definitely lived up to my childhood memories of it.

More Tokyo Awaits!

I’d hoped to write just one post for all of Tokyo but this post is running absurdly long so I’m splitting it into two posts. To read about the Ghibli museum, the Gundam Cafe, and Sensoji shrine read More Tokyo.

Japan Vacation – First Stop Osaka

Nicole and I visited Japan over Korean Thanksgiving, more commonly known as, Chuseok. We had Wednesday to Sunday to cram as much globe-trotting into our lives as humanly possible. Since I’ve always wanted to visit Japan, we opted to go to Osaka, Kyoto, and Nara.DSC_0830

Traveling to Osaka

Wednesday Morning, we woke up at 6 and took a cab to the bus terminal then a bus to Busan, then a subway to a light-rail, then a light-rail to an airport where we caught a plane to Osaka. The flight, fortunately, is only 1.5 hours. We spent nearly that long on the subway crossing Busan from the very most Northeastern stop to the very most Southwestern stop.

Nicole and I were on a budget so we opted for Peach Airlines. A great little airline unless you like leg room, then its awful. I’m guessing the average Japanese passenger is not 6’2″ so it’s not usually an issue, but I couldn’t sit with my knees straight without hitting the seat in front of me.

We landed in Osaka late in the afternoon and bought a rail pass at the train station. If you ever visit Osaka, I definitely recommend the pass. For about $60 you can travel around Osaka, Nara, and Kyoto for four days on the JR train lines. There are different passes for different rail companies.

Osaka

The ride in from Osaka Airport to downtown Osaka took about 40 minutes. Along the way we saw the gradual change from suburban apartment buildings into urban apartment buildings and office buildings.

Osaka itself is an impressive place. Historically it was the commercial hub of Japan and to some degree it still is. During the day its the second largest city in Japan, but at night it becomes the third largest city in Japan because so many people commute from outside of Osaka for work. Nicole and I saw many of these commuters on our way into the city.

AirBnBpanoThe train eventually dropped us off a few minutes from the place we would be staying. Nicole and I booked a room on AirBnB for about $200 for the whole 5 days, practically a steal in the second largest city in Japan. The building we stayed in was owned by an expat living in Osaka. She rents the rooms to foreign teachers and foreign students and the empty rooms she lists on AirBnB. We booked it because there was a communal kitchen, it was cheap, and most importantly, there was a hot tub on the roof.

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The neighborhood wasn’t too bad, but it wasn’t too good either. It reminded me of a shadier neighborhood in a big city in the US, except everyone was Japanese. During our time in Japan though we spent almost no time in our neighborhood. Most of our time was spent traveling to other cool neighborhoods or attractions.

Dōtonbori

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Our first stop was a neighborhood called Dotonbori. The neighborhood is primarily a tourist

district, but its so neat. There are several pedestrian-only streets closed off to traffic and completely covered overhead by neon lights. Along either side of the street are little restaurants, shops, and arcades.

Nicole and I stopped into one such sushi place and ate oodles of delicious sushi for only $1-2 per piece. On the inside it looked identical to what you might consider a traditional sushi place back in the states. It was small, dimly lit, only had a few seats and was dominated by a large sushi bar immediately inside the door. Nicole and I sat down at the bar and tried urchin, egg, salmon, tuna, roe, and several other pieces. Each time we would pick something off the menu, point to it, and a sushi chef would prepare it instantly. When he was done making it, he would simply reach over the bar and place it on your plate.

After our sushi dinner, Nicole and I wandered along the Dōtonbori canal. On either side of the canal were large neon signs and bars or clubs. Nicole and I took our picture in front of the famous Glico sign, showing a man crossing a finish line.

After Nicole and I had our fill, we took a subway a few stops back to our room and tried to get the hot tub working, to no avail. We met a few of the residents. Many of them were from Europe, including the gentleman that ran the actual building. He offered to get the hot tub up and running for us tomorrow night. We thanked him and decided to turn in for the night.

Thoughts

After my first day in Osaka, I must say the whole area was incredible. There were neon signs everywhere and all manner of crazy shops and stores. We saw arcades and casinos, internet cafes and bars, even a Ferris wheel built on top of a store right along the canal.